DRECOLL Walking Jacket, Paris & Vienna, ca. 1910 – Antique Couture Silk Jacket

This cream‑coloured jacket from ca. 1910, made of fine pongee silk—a lightweight natural silk woven in a subtle taffeta structure—is an exquisite example of early 20th‑century couture craftsmanship. The piece is lavishly decorated with galloon edgings and tassels, the latter intricately wrapped with soutache, demonstrating the luxurious detailing characteristic of high‑end fashion during the Belle Époque.

The chest and sleeve areas are further embellished with blue silk velvet, bobbin lace, and crochet buttons, creating a striking interplay of textures and colours. The jacket closes at the chest with a black silk satin ribbon that hooks into place. Inside, the original Drecoll Paris & Vienna label is preserved—an important marker of provenance and couture history.

The jacket is in very good exterior condition, with only two to three minor stains, a few torn crochet threads, and a small seam opening at the chest closure. The interior lining, however, shows noticeable wear and is therefore in moderately good condition. The piece originates from the historic collection of A.T. Jones & Sons, a renowned American costuming company. Decorative accessories shown in photos are not included.

Historical Context: Drecoll

The jacket was created by the celebrated couturier Johann Wilhelm Rudolf Christoph von Drecoll (1851–1939), a German designer whose career spanned Hamburg, Vienna, Paris, New York, and Berlin. After training at Röper & Messerschmidt in Hamburg, Drecoll worked in Vienna for Josef Hallauer before opening his own salon in the 1880s. He became famous for stage costumes, including the gown worn by Adele Sandrock as Maria Stuart at the Burgtheater in 1895, and for equestrian costumes, notably for Empress Elisabeth of Austria. In 1905, he opened his Paris salon, which operated until 1930. Drecoll’s style was known for being extravagant, innovative, and often ahead of contemporary fashion trends; he is credited with influencing the rise of the balloon sleeve in 1892.

A rare and culturally significant example of Drecoll couture, this jacket is a valuable piece for collectors of Belle Époque fashion, Paris‑Vienna couture, and museum‑quality garments.

Chest: ~ 92 cm
Length: ~ 77 cm